Friday, November 15, 2013

What's for breakfast???

My life is about food. People often say that, but if you know me, you know that I’m not joking. I am always planning future meals. You do not want to face me when I’m “hangry”. I am surprised that I haven’t told you all much about my food life in Cambodia thus far. I apologize, but white white rice for every meal hasn’t inspired me too much to get into the finer Khmer delicacies. I promise to be better, for all my friends who document their food consistently and my accomplished food blogger friends, and start to let you in on what some of the more common food items I consume are outside of my house. Let’s start with the variety of things I eat for breakfast on a daily basis.

Baee Sach J’rook (pork and rice)
Pork and rice is perhaps the most common breakfast in Cambodia and the most filling. This plate of rice, usually the broken variety which is cheaper), is topped with slices of marinated BBQ pork from a small grill, some sort of duck egg (either omelet or hard boiled) and a side of pickled vegetables. My grandma uses both kinds of egg and adds a few different sauces on top with garlic. After I add lots of bright red chili sauce, not spicy, to make sure the white rice no longer seems white. As mentioned in the article linked above, Cambodians must carbo-load when they wake up with the crowing of the roosters since they probably won’t eat lunch until 5 or 6 hours later. I tend to eat this at my grandma’s rice stall next door when I have several hours of teaching ahead and I know I can’t eat until after 1 PM (very late for Cambodians). It costs me 2000 riels (50 cents) but can cost as much as $2 when purchased in Phnom Penh.



Banh Chi Oh (Cambodian pancake)
I initially came upon Banh Chi Oh when I was looking for alternatives to eating rice for breakfast, however, I soon found out that this yellow pancake filled with fatty pork and bean sprouts, is actually made of rice. But it’s cleverly disguised so I try to forget this myself. It is accompanied by various leafy greens (literally leaves), some peanut sauce and spicy pepper thrown on top. I eat this when I have the time to bike over to the market, about 1 km away, to go to my favorite stall. The seating area is such that the chair is crammed against the wooden block I eat at, not the most comfortable, but the taste makes up for it. I also receive the most attention when eating this one since it’s right in the center of the market, so I’m sure to have many people who have never seen me before shocked to see a foreigner gobbling up this dish. This also costs me 2000 riels for a decent portion.


Jek K’tee (Banana Coconut pudding)
Cambodian sweets are often an afternoon snack found in the sides of the road in my town, but my favorite sweets lady is in full operation in the market starting in the morning, until she runs out of selection. These sweets are perhaps my favorite part of Cambodian cuisine as they’re delicious, super cheap (a small bowl is 500 riels – 13 cents), and endlessly fascinating. These ladies are surrounded by silver bowls filled to the brim with unknown brightly colored soups. The food looks like make-believe or created from play-doh. They often taste similar, and I tend to stick to a few of my favorites of the banana or pumpkin variety. My usual is a banana soup made with coconut milk, tapioca, with a bit of custard thrown in, sticky sweet rice and some sesame seeds on top. My host mom has taught me to make a few of these in hopes that I’ll continue to do so in America; maybe I’ll just open up my own bong ai-em (sweets) stand.

Mi Chaa jia muy bontia (Stir-fried noodles with egg)
This is perhaps the most simple of dishes, but it is quite satisfying and a good alternative to rice. A little shop near my school makes me favorite and it doesn’t hurt that they also recently got free wifi, always an exciting addition to a PC Volunteer’s site. They throw some ramen noodles in a wok with morning glory, fry a duck egg and throw that on top. In Phnom Penh, one of the few mobile street foods are these carts where they make the same with either ramen noodles or short fatter noodles called lo chaa. In Phnom Penh or in my town, this meal sets me back 2000-3000 riels.


http://khatiya-korner.com/blog/2009/10/23/cambodian-fried-rice-noodles/ (these are fried rice noodles, which is not the same, but on this blog are many varieties of Khmer food from a large Khmer immigrant population in Stockton, CA)

Oatmeal
It comes from packets that I have either bought in America or had generously sent to me. You can imagine what it looks like.

If you still haven’t gotten enough of food links… - http://travel.cnn.com/cambodia-best-dishes-cambodia-food-401118


Preview of future food blogs: I have in fact eaten duck fetus and crickets. Both are tasty, but I only got my family to sample the latter. If you’re curious, in the meantime, check this out: http://www.theatlanticwire.com/national/2012/08/fertilized-duck-eggs-arent-gross-theyre-actually-pretty-delicious/56181/

Thursday, November 7, 2013

October come and gone

Time is on the minds of many a volunteer recently. I hear mention of a "countdown" since we have less than a year left, sharing the holiday spirit we miss from America this time of year, thinking of the future beyond our return, and fear of regret for not making the most of the present. For me, I barely notice the passing time since there is not much noticeable change in season. The torrential rains have stopped and it's not getting "colder"; my trainees are wearing jackets over their uniforms, my students insist the fans are turned off when we're practicing yoga, and I sweat just a little bit less. I do, believe it or not, reach for my blanket while sleeping, which is similar to a large towel (provided by Peace Corps), but I will still never turn off my fan.

Rainy season rice fields
Recently, my mind has been occupied by the time I spend with the energetic, enthusiastic girls I work with at Mekhala House, a home for at-risk girls. It's down the street from me, and every time I arrive to teach English, yoga, or hang out, I'm greeted by swarming girls screaming "sister, sister!". It's nice to feel needed. I started their yoga program, thanks to donations from friends and family, almost a month ago with a class from Cambodia's only yoga NGO, Krama Yoga. Two Khmer teachers came from Phnom Penh to teach the girls (and one boy) two separate sessions that first weekend. The girls took to yoga quite well, not only through their natural capacity for the poses, but also in their attitudes. Ever since, they are begging me to teach them more and trying to stand on their heads. They are so busy with school and extra classes, as all school children are, that I either teach them every week at 5:30 AM or on the weekend. Today, they were waiting for me, buzzing at 5:20 on their colorful mats. Your typical American pre-teen or teen would not be found exuding such alertness at that hour. I feed off their energy to stumble my way through modeling while simultaneously explaining in Khmer what I'm doing in each pose. While the girls often exclaim "chu!" which translates to sick or hurt while practicing, they push on to attempt challenging poses or are beginning to elect taking a rest in between. This has been an invigorating addition to my schedule and I am exciting to continue leading them through classes through the duration of my service. Natural leaders are starting to shine through who will take on leading classes as I end my time here. Staff from Mekhala, the English teacher and house mom, are participating consistently in class out of their own interest in yoga and I hope will continue to do so in future years.

First headstands; can't stop, won't stop
This year, I felt some nostalgia for American holidays and attempted some Halloween celebrations with my host sisters and girls at Mekhala. I was somewhat successful in getting the idea across, but what a bizarre holiday to try to explain logically and with limited language abilities. When the ladies at the market expressed amusement that I was purchasing pumpkins, I attempted to explain why, that we would make faces on them since it was part of an American tradition for a holiday there. They just laughed and continued on. My sisters and I draw faces on their pumpkins (I was scared for them to wield knives), painted our faces, put on fake mustaches (thanks to Rebecca!) and watched a "Toy Story" Halloween special. The girls at Mekhala had some base of understanding for Halloween, probably from the internet or TV, and were excited to celebrate together. We took out face paint and I showed them some images on google to inspire their creativity. They went to town, and turned me into a bloody zombie. We also watched "Nightmare Before Christmas" which conveniently folds in other American holidays. They were completely engrossed in the movie and have continued to sing the songs after; successful sharing of American culture, if I can say so myself. Best part, I biked home with that facepaint at the horror of some people on the street. If foreigners weren't scary enough...

Original face painting ideas, these girls have some dark thoughts it seems...
Cambodian Correspondence received its first postcards and the students have been hard at work designing their own unique postcards to send in response. Please send us 1 or more postcards to learn about my students and Khmer culture!